Blog

Saturday was a very relaxing day for me, just catching up in the morning with all the business to deal with Letters to the Earth project and other emails. Carol and Charlie went off on walks. Carol painted across the road at the cliffs and also back here in the barbeque area. There’s a really good set up there for several painters to sit and work Between the barbeque pit and the gardens
I worked on a few different paintings. That’s one thing I’m looking forward to it when going home is getting into my oils on canvas. I have lots of sketches and ideas and photographs and that will take up a a great amount of time in the next several months.
Then we went into town, parked the car, and had a coffee and a glass of that clear liquid that is homemade; the bar owner couldn’t believe I remembered to ask for it. It might be illegal for her to sell it in a bar, but it tasted good.
We wandered around town through alleyways that I hadn’t looked at and saw some different views of the cliffs of Zambujeira and looked into other rentals for future comparison. We had a tour of one apartment that rents at €750 a month. It was really clean, cute, tiny, but had everything necessary for a couple, and it’s right in town! I plan to rebook what I have now for February through April in 2024.
We went over to my favourite little shop with all the clothing and I bought another scarf. Carole bought some more stuff and chatted with my new friend Gryach (unsure of spelling).
I took them over to the Shaan Indian restaurant and we picked up six samosas for dinner and then we came home. The sun was setting so we grabbed a box of wine and our samosas, walked over to the cliffs, across the road, sat an a rock and watched the sunset. Back home a few more episodes Ted Lasso series and to bed.

Happy St. Patrick’s Day Everyone:

We ended up in a new town on Friday, Arrifana. I hadn’t been here at all, but because Charlie was driving practicing his stick shift driving, which was really nice for me. We got a chance to go farther south. This town,Arrifana, is south of Aljezur and back at the coast. It’s an unbelievable beach with very high cliffs which protect it, but you can get down to the beach. Lots of surfing and body surfing here in this spot. It’s a really nice setting, makes you want to stay there, except that we noticed that the restaurant prices were about 3 to 4 euros higher than what we have at home in Zambujeira. Rentals here are more expensive as well; this is considered to be the start of the Algarve. 
We did go to have a look at the beach at Odeceixe that you’ve heard me talk about before, and also we stopped in Aljezur at the restaurant that Irene and Ross and I stopped whatever day that was. Of course Carol & Charlie and I don’t drink, so we had tea in big mugs labelled like beer but I’m sure they weren’t beer.
When we got back to Zambujeira, we were all really hungry so I took them down to Mr. Bean‘s restaurant. Estrella, Do Mar. Charlie had the octopus and bean stew, Carole had Sea bream and I had Sea bass. It was another incredible day. Back home a few episodes of Ted Lasso, a glass of port, and then off to bed.

Until tomorrow friends. 

There’s more areas that I wanted Carol and Charlie to see north of Zambujeira.

Porto Covo, Malvao beach and Vila Nova De Milfontes were really important areas to see because they’re all quite different and different from what we saw the day before.
First I took them to Porto Covo, a very small village with low lying cliffs. You may have heard me talk about it before in this blog; it’s a lovely little town, just about the right size. It’s another area that I would consider staying for an extended length of time. It has a few shops. It has a lot of restaurants although early in the season, while it’s considered their winter, they’re probably not all open. Even at this time, it’s certainly not crowded with people, ideal from my point of view.
We parked the car and walked around. I know Carol particularly liked this little village. You have wonderful views of the sea from the walkways and they’re quite extensive and there’s lovely little areas where you can get down and paint or photograph or draw. We stopped and had something to eat, because we hadn’t had any breakfast, and it was already past noon by then. Charlie ordered a pizza that was unbelievable- even within the crust they put cheese. Carol and I shared an octopus rice, which had a really interesting flavor, quite different from anything I’ve had before. I did notice that the prices of the meals here were about two and three euros more than they are in Zambujeira.

I still think Zambujeira has the best quality food at restaurants and reasonable prices.
From there we headed south a little bit to Malvao beach, the beach, that you have to access over a washerboard road for about 2 km.

After that we headed south again to Vila Nova de Milfontes, which is a town that has almost everything you need. I think there’s around 14,000 residents there in total. And then in summer of course it’s expands to 50,000. We parked the car by the water and walked up into the town. The first thing we went into was Atelier Vincent‘s studio an artist studio. The artist Vincent Pippa, is Italian; he had worked in Germany and came down to Portugal and has been here for 25 years. I liked his work, ceramic tiles and he also works on canvas and does paintings in oil. His studio and residence are in the same building.
After looking at the artist’s work, we walked up and found a little restaurant, which was really cute and had another beer. We met a couple at the table next to us, who were on their way in the next while, to go back to woman’s home in Germany, to get married. The man Sarah is marrying is Mexican, and they’re still having a little issue getting his visa so they can live together permanently. They adopted a lovely dog in Portugal who looks be about a year old. What a delight they were to talk to! Sarah is a type of Life Coach and her love of travel is quite sinificant. (https://unfoldwithsarah.com/)

After that, we headed back towards Zambujeira, and we stopped in at my favourite restaurant O Sacas, for dinner. As usual it was excellent. It was another great day.

Back home we watched another four episodes of Ted Lasso, and had some Port of course, along with the one order of dessert that Carol got from the restaurant. Whatever it was, it was made with dates and it was yummy.

Until tomorrow.

I’ve spent a really relaxing day again today. I know I’ll be running around for the next 16 days with Carol and Charlie but that’s OK. I’m quite happy to do that. Today I was just making the beds, going out and getting some groceries and of course, I forgot and stuff so I’m waiting till 3 PM when the local grocery store opens and then I’ll get the cheese and whatever else I forgotten.

Charlie and Carole are just waiting for the 4 PM bus in Lisbon. They arrived an hour later by plane than scheduled so I’ll have to find out about that. Flying seems to be on a totally different schedule than pre-pandemic times. When they get here I’ll pick them up but I should have dinner ready. I think I’m going to make some kind of a chicken with curry and potatoes and vegetables. . That sounds good to me and I’m sure they’ll like it. I have plenty of wine. I have some port- ruby in tawny. I have some beer and that clear liquid that the old men around here seem to like. And I seem to have got attracted to it too ha ha ha ha.
I need a kind of chicken marsala, according to my own recipe and whatever vegetables I needed to use. I had a pre-taste so I don’t poison my Goss. Even if I say so myself, it’s damn good.
We have new neighbours a couple from north of Porto and there are three-year-old daughter. Luís doesn’t seem to have any trouble renting out his place. It’s a good location for a holiday for sure.
Oh, I already planned to be back here for March. I’m not sure whether I’ll do a second month but you never know. It’s amazing how the time flies and once you’re comfortable, it’s like being home again.
The bus is coming in in a few minutes, but I thought I’d stop by my favourite Indian restaurant Shaan, and get three vegetable samosas. Carol and Charlie are vegetarian‘s. Generally even though tonight they’re gonna eat a bit of chicken in their chicken Marcella. The samosas they have here are pricier than I usually get in Scarborough. However, the crust is fabulous whatever they do and making it it is the best I’ve ever tasted. And you know me I love food.
The bus here! Yay!!!

Until tomorrow.

It’s been an odd day for weather today. Although temperature was around 17 or 18 degrees, it was overcast. Actually at one point there was a sprinkle of rain. I had left the sheets out on the line overnight because they weren’t quite dry last night and, of course they got wet again, so now they’re drying in the warmth of the porch, on the line. This is a thing you don’t think of at home; we throw stuff in the dryer.

There been a lot of emails back-and-forth about my project. I don’t know how many of you know about that. It is called Letters to the Earth: Between Despair and Hope. I began this project in 2021 and so far it has been all setup and in the organization stage. It is an environmental project involving about 70 creative people who commit to the project by writing letters to the earth and sending these handwritten letters to me. We have many exhibitions booked in the next two years. Our first one in Ontario is in Aurora at the Cultural Centre, and is on for about 10 weeks. Then we have one in the fall at the Station Gallery in Whitby. There are also two exhibitions in May, in Scotland, one in Glasgow, and one in the Highlands of Scotland, in an area called Sutherland. Before I left to come here it was a really really busy time and I was actually getting quite exhausted with the emails and the responses and putting together a catalogue and all the intricacies of organizing exhibitions and promotion. I came here and dropped the ball. Today, I got back at it answering emails sending images. I realize I’ve only got just over three weeks left here and when I get back I really have to do a lot of work coordinating all the aspects of these exhibitions.

My friends, Carol and Charlie arrive tomorrow night and they will get me on task working on this project. They have participated right from the beginning very enthusiastically. Our first exhibition in Ontario begins in June. In this June exhibition we have about 40 artists and almost 60 works so I’m hoping that you get to come to our opening which I think is June 3 but I will confirm that.
I took this year off the studio tour because I knew I’d be overwhelmed with work for this environmental project. However, if anybody wants to come up and see my own work at my studio, I’m doing or talk to me about the project or become involved, just connect with me. The good thing about being off the Studio tour is that I can actually go in around the other studios and see the work the other artists are doing. When you’re a studio artist, you don’t get to see your colleagues’ studios and how they set up, so that this will be a great opportunity for me.

Today my friends will arrive in this town by 7pm. I am really excited to see them. I last saw them last October/November in Tennessee when my friend Lynda and I flew down to Nashville and Carol and Charlie picked us up;we stayed with them in Crossville. I have known Carol since the late 90’s , when my friend, Audra insisted on me coming to do some photography in Spain. Audra had met Carol at a conference in Florida. Since then we have had many great times together and Carol and Charlie always joined me for Photography and painting adventures in Ireland, as did Lynda Cunningham!

C& C are now flying from London,UK to Lisbon and will catch a bus down here from Lisbon.

Have a great Tuesday everyone!

The last few hours with visitors and the mystery of the green crocs, size 5!

I got up early although, I had slept a good long eight hours. I wanted to get my blog finished because I didn’t get it done last night with all the conversation. And I was really quite tired and I needed to go to bed. This morning I wanted to work on it before anybody else got up, Especially Irene, because she’s talkative. Ross knows how to sit and just enjoy the peace. He’s actually a very relaxed guest.
I made tea, and eventually Irene got up and had her shower and prepared to leave. Ross is already sitting outside with his tea and his cigar, which he didn’t get last night; he’s enjoying the peace and quiet.
My landlord came by, probably to solve the mystery of the lost crocs. Irene had lost her green crocs. She had placed them yesterday on the front porch, intending to take them with her for walking in the sand and forgot them when we went out. When we came back from our touring around, they had disappeared. Why would anybody take size 5 Green crocs? That was the mystery. I thought maybe Luís or his mother had come by and placed them inside the other house, but no, they hadn’t. Luís was working down in the Algarve and his mother didn’t come up here yesterday, so the mystery has not been solved. I leave the doors wide-open when I’m alone here; I have no issues, because I feel safe. Irene, I think was worried that there was some weirdo coming in here, but it is a mystery. A cat wouldn’t carry crocs away and there’s no dogs loose around here.
By 10 o’clock we decided to go out to breakfast. Originally I planned to take them down and get a croissant and a coffee in another café (Por Del Sol) that I really like but, I thought because it was Sunday, it might be closed. It wasn’t however , but by the time we were all ready, we had decided to have breakfast out. We went around to Café Rita, which you’ve heard me talk about. Each of us had an omelette and Irene ordered custard tarts, similar to what she buys in the Portuguese area of Chinatown, Toronto, because the island of Macau in China was run by the Portuguese. She used to get the tarts there and she loves them.

After breakfast, I took them up to my shop where I bought a fleece jacket and the lady had been so helpful to me. I wanted her to meet Ross and Irene. Our next move was back to the house to get their suitcases and all their stuff.
I threw sheets in the washing machine and after that, the towels. Ross loaded the car with their luggage. I hung the sheets to dry on the line and figured I would get the towels later when I get back from the bus station. I have new guests coming in on Tuesday, so I needed fresh clean sheets.
When the bus arrived at the station, it didn’t take much time before the driver was starting the engine to go again. Ross told me, when in Lisbon, they arrived at the bus station just three minutes before the bus left, and they still hadn’t got their tickets; that was because Irene takes her time. Even though she worries about everything, Ross says she’s a “what if” kind of person, always concerned an\bout what could happen.

Today I made sure that they had plenty of time so they wouldn’t miss the bus. The driver was in so much of a hurry that he did literally push them onto the bus to leave.

For me it was sad seeing them go. I really enjoyed their company, even though I enjoyed my first weeks alone, touring around the country doing my research in photographs and getting to the country for my future visitors. I really enjoyed the short time they were with me. And, I am looking forward to my two friends from the US coming on Tuesday night. I just spoke to them in Crossville , Tennessee. They are getting in the car soon to drive to Chicago. Their flight leaves from Chicago Monday via London, UK, and then they transfer to a flight to Lisbon early Tuesday morning.

I’m relaxing the rest of the day.
By the way, I think Irene finally accepted BC, the cat. He kept coming around so much. she’s not really allergic she’s just afraid! She realized how much BC likes me and is always following me so she just closed her bedroom door so that he couldn’t get in there. BC was happy because it felt like he had a family around him.

The morning began with a good breakfast and then the plan was to cover as much ground as possible on their last full day in Portugal. We headed south to go to Odeceixe, the amazingly wide beach that has a river running into it.
The countryside around the town is large rolling hills. It is the Algarve‘s northernmost coastal settlement. The small town clings to the side of the river Seixe valley that divides the two regions. It’s considered pretty sleepy during the season now, but it gets packed with the summer surfer and tourists from the north. I took Ross and Irene out to the beach which feels much more expansive and calmer than ones we had been at before. The beach, about 3 kilometres from the main town of the same name, has a fantastic setting at the river mouth river. Of course the river is not salty and it’s a good option in the whole area for family because you can actually swim in the river because it’s gentle and paddle or kayak.

There is a surf school here at the beach as well. After Ross and Irene got their feet, well soaked in the water we walked back across the expense of it and up the stairs to the roadway and then up again to where the car. It’s a lot of walking and climbing!
Then I wanted them to see Aljezur, a town I’ve gone through several times on the way south. I thought maybe we’d stop and have a beer there. Of course as you go down the hills you see the castle up above and I did want to find that. That was one of those holy shit rides, trying to find it and then into it on the narrow steep roads.

Ross, especially was fascinated by the age of the Aljezur castle.
Aljezur castle is supposed to have been built by the Arabs in the early 10th century however, an archeological dig performed at the end of the 1990s revealed that it dated back to the Bronze Age. That’s about 3000 BC. Among the objects found were many manufactured items from the Muslim period as well as two silos with wheat for wheat storage. The river around the city was navigable until the 16 century. Lots of ships used to come in to drop off goods. It’s not navigable because of the silt is all built up. It’s actually quite a small river now.

Coming down into the town from the castle was a really interesting ride again. There were a few swear words expressed by me, because of the narrow roads; between the houses it is two-way driving so when you’re going downhill, I just had to be a little aggressive if a car was coming up, they had to either back up or figure out something else because I was coming down. It was quite the experience then we arrived in town, parked and walked back to her an interesting little restaurant with a patio beside the river.There was a German couple sitting there and of course, Irene immediately started the conversation, telling her whole history! Ross ordered beers for all of us (a little one for Irene of course) and then Irene went and got some squid! I hadn’t eaten squid before but they were really good.
It was a lovely spot to sit in the sun and just rest for the end of their touring holiday; because it was getting late in the day we didn’t spend too long there. The drive back was about 45 minutes and then we sat out on the patio at home until just past 6 o’clock.

For dinner, I took them down to another highly praised restaurant that I wanted them to go to on the first day they arrived, Restaurant Odesus.

Irene and I shared a big casserole dish of seafood rice. You literally had to take all the varieties of seafood inside out individually cracker shells and then eat the food. It was hard work but my god was delicious. Ross ordered Sea bass. The presentation was incredible and he said it was really really good and that’s something I think I will get the next time I go there. Everything was so fresh it’s so amazing, but then it’s only caught that day. The rest of the evening was spent just sitting and chatting. I was tired so I tried to get this blog done then, but I had to wait until this morning early. It’s now a few minutes before eight and I will post this.
Ross and Irene are catching the 12:30pm bus up to Lisbon and then an 8 o’clock flight out to Dublin. They plan to stay in Dublin for two days and then fly home to Toronto.
On Tuesday my American friends arrive. In between and I will be washing sheets preparing for them and just relaxing. it feels like my time is flying away.

We had a relaxing start to our day. I was up early. Then Ross got up and finally, Irene woke up. She hadn’t slept most of the night. She said she only got to sleep around 5:30 am and she’s really tired today to the point that she’s falling asleep as I drive through some fabulous landscapes and towns.

We had a tea, and then I made them breakfast of bacon and eggs and fresh bread. It was about 12:30 PM by the time we got out the door (late!) and I had made plans to take them to several areas so it was going to be a tight schedule.
The first place I took them on tour was to Porto Covo; it’s about 35 minutes north of where we live. It has a fabulous long beach and very few people on it. I don’t think my guests could believe how gorgeous the beach is. As Irene said, each beach is better than the one before it. We spent a lot of time there, walking in the sand. This is the beach that I’m taking my friends Carol & Charlie to paint and photograph. The waves were crashing against the sand as we walk through it. It was so beautiful.

Next I took them over to another area of the town,the harbour, where the fisherman keep their boats and where they go out in the morning to fish. We stopped in at the restaurant, Azul Do Mar. I had been there before, and today we had a beer together. It was really a nice break.

From there I took them south to another incredible beach Malhão, which can be accessed by a long, washboard road down to the water. I warned my passengers how bumpy ride would be. They couldn’t quite believe that it would be that bad, all 2 km of it. But the beach at the end is incredible. I had at one point read in my Guidebook that there was a beach that was OK if you wanted to be nude and Irene and I ( Cougars!) did notice a nice set of buns there. I think that might’ve taken Ross by surprise.

The next place I took them was a little bit south again, to Vila Nova de Milfontes. It’s a town I visit a lot and I really do like it. The beach is fabulous as well and if you drive along the roadway, you can go out to what I thought was a lighthouse, but it’s not; it overlooks the area where the river flows into the ocean. You can get quite panoramic views of the town along the river and out to a wide ocean. It is really beautiful to see but I imagine that in the summer you wouldn’t be able to drive and park out there. It would be so busy .
We returned to Zambujeira and landed at my favourite Indian restaurant. All three of us had wonderful dinners and I introduced Irene and Ross to Farouk, the young man who runs the restaurant with his brother. Farouk graduated from university as an engineer but his brother asked him to come to Portugal and start opening restaurants. I hope they succeed.
We were back at the house by shortly after seven and we sat around outside; it was a lovely evening. We drank port and talked.
Tomorrow is another day for touring. Ross and Irene only have tomorrow and then Sunday at noon, they’re catching the bus to go back to Lisbon. For them, it’s been a really quick trip. I do get the sense that Irene is a restless soul; she cannot settle too long in a place. I think Ross would be quite happy with a few more days here.

It’s 7:30 in the morning. I’ve been up for a bit doing dishes and just getting my tea made and of course getting cat food out for the newly wed felines.

It wass a windy night but the temperature is going up to over 19 today. It’s quite overcast and a little rainy. BC and his partner must have eloped in the middle of night. Everything is calm, no howling anymore and the female cat is out in the field. She’s very shy, but the two cats were together when I walked out the door this morning. BC really wants to be inside for now, just for a visit, but I can’t let him in because Irene is totally frightened of cats.
My guests are still sleeping. Irene is a late sleeper normally-she is a night person.

I really wanted to get my blog done last night and I didn’t have time (with guests) so I was a little later into the evening. I wasn’t as satisfied with it, but then, I guess it’s gonna be difficult for a bit because I am so busy. Irene and Ross leave on Sunday; they’re taking the bus up to Lisbon and then flying back into Dublin and then staying a couple of nights in Ireland and then back home . They are great travelling companions.

Ross is a widower. He was a caregiver for his wife for many many years, until she died about 3 years ago. He’s always wanted to travel and Irene travels a lot with her Air Canada discounts. I don’t envy that kind of travel; you often have to standby; you can’t always guarantee you’re going to get on a plane and as you know they had all sorts of upsets in Toronto with this last venture in the snowstorm. Ross has now had the opportunity to go to Hawaii, Cuba, and Alaska and now here to Portugal and of course Ireland for a short bit. While you’re healthy, why not travel especially with a good friend!

Today we visited beaches to walk in the sand, explored a large grocery store to look at what’s offered for sale in fresh fish and other products. We then did a mid afternoon meal at O Sacas, one of the best seafood restaurants in the area. It was a busy day and tomorrow will be another fun day buzzing around.